Passion & Mountains
Inspired by the mountains
“The mountains inspire me. That’s where I make my dreams come true, where I push out the limits of my experience and find a new dimension to bring to my management activities. They are the source of the passion that I integrate into my work as a professional speaker, interim manager, trainer and coach. It’s a wonderful combination. And for me, it is vitally important that my work motivates and inspires others, too.”
“It was by happy accident that I discovered in 1983 that my passion lies in the mountains. I was on a hiking trip with friends in Austria when I suddenly felt: this is it! After that, not a year passed without a visit to the mountains. Whether I’m trekking in the Alps or the Himalayas, sleeping out in a tent or in a mountain hut, climbing rocks or snow and ice, I always feel happy in the mountains. That’s where I am able to expand. It’s also where I can get perspective on the hectic of daily life; reflecting on and clarifying what is really important to me. It’s a unique experience to see what a strong bond develops with your teammates. You’re dependent on each other, living together in often very demanding circumstances. That takes close cooperation, and is very motivational.”
What began with difficult hikes in 1983, gradually developed into real mountain climbing. One thing led to another: in 1994 Katja Staartjes went to Nepal for the first time for a trekking tour. This was followed in 1995 by the ascent of Mera Peak (6,500 m). The Cho Oyu, at 8,201 m, was her first peak above eight thousand metres. One year later – on Ascension Day 1999 – she climbed Mount Everest: at 8,848 m the highest peak in the world. This climb was the inspiration for Katja’s book: Hoog spel (High Stakes: not translated in English).
Development
Those who believe you have ‘seen it all’ as a climber once you have scaled Everest are sadly mistaken. While it is true that there are no higher summits in an absolute sense, there are plenty of mountains that are technically much more difficult to climb than the easiest route on Mount Everest. Challenges galore, in other words.
“You can always develop yourself further, if you want. On whatever level you like. The challenge may lie in being unfamiliar with the area, or the way you personally organise an expedition. In 2004, for instance, I organised my own independent expedition. Objective: to climb Gasherbrum 1 and 2 in Pakistan. I embarked on this expedition with my husband (Henk Wesselius), and two Pakistani climbers. Henk and I complement each other well and we’re a strong climbing duo. It’s wonderful to be able to share a passion for a sport like this with your partner.
The expedition resulted in reaching the summit of Gasherbrum 1 (8,068 m) together, thereby becoming the first Dutch nationals to achieve this. I always look back on this climb with pleasure, especially because of the teamwork that got us there: among our own group of four climbers and with two other teams, one German, one Spanish. Getting to the summit is important, but it is also about the process: the route, and the way you get there.”
Leading expeditions
A small-scale expedition followed in 2006 to Dhaulagiri (8,167 m). Then in 2008, Katja led two expeditions to the eight-thousander Manaslu (8,163 m). The first of these in the spring, a 5-person expedition, unfortunately ended prematurely at 7,700 m. In the autumn, Katja and Henk returned independently to Manaslu, the “mountain of the soul”. This was the first time for them to be without any climbing support; no Dutch team mates, no climbing sherpas. The duo reached the subsidiary peak at 8,140 metres; 20 metres below the real summit. Although very disappointing, it was the highest achievable point. And at that time, it was a Dutch first on this giant mountain. No one else from our country had ever been this high – certainly not under the same circumstances without support. "It was a shame, but at least we returned safe and sound from the ‘death zone’ – something that is definitely not to be taken for granted on the eight-thousanders, which claim new deaths every year. And anyway, life just isn’t always roses and moonshine. Sometimes you don’t get exactly what you wanted. You have to let time pass after a big disappointment. The important thing is to maintain your inspiration. To learn from experience, and dream new dreams. And then turn those dreams into new, concrete, inspiring goals. Then your growth and development never stops.”
The challenge in 2011 – 2013 is to cross Nepal: on foot, from the triple-border point in the Northwest to the Northeastern triple-border point, as far north as possible, and with a crossing in West-Nepal that has never before been made by westerners. Read more about the Nepal Traverse.
For more information about Katja Staartjes’s climbing expeditions, see Expeditions.
