Mount Everest 1999
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Mount Everest (8,848 m), Nepal |
Chomolungma
The success on Cho Oyu and the breathtaking view of Mount Everest from the 8,201 m high peak started Katja thinking about climbing “the highest mountain”. The mother-goddess of the world (Chomolungma), as the Tibetans call the mountain, is an incredibly attractive prospect. Although there are considerably more difficult mountains to climb, none are higher than the Mount Everest peak at 8,848 metres. And that makes it unique. Consequently, like Mont Blanc, it tends to get very busy on this mountain – not something that the Dutch mountaineer finds enchanting.
Katja also had her doubts about joining a major commercial expedition. After much consideration, however, this was the option she chose. After all, she did not yet have sufficient experience to set up an independent expedition, which would also require more financial means. None of her Dutch counterparts had any plans involving Everest. Participation in an organised international Everest expedition with guides was therefore the only option, notwithstanding the drawbacks. Katja mainly saw disadvantages in the size of the team and the many different nationalities (with big cultural differences), and the fact that the team members did not know each other personally beforehand. But choices mean accepting their consequences, including the drawbacks. And participating in an expedition to Everest would be a wonderful way to get to the highest peak in the world. To see for herself all those famous places, such as the Khumbu ice-fall and the Hillary Step! It also offered the potential for gaining more experience.
Deep experience
The expedition was a profound experience in many ways. Katja had divorced shortly before the expedition, and was suffering from bronchitis at the beginning of the climb: not the best of beginnings. Furthermore, the expedition was not exactly a success in terms of team spirit. Not so strange, perhaps, when you have not been involved in the preparations and training together.
Result
Nine of the 19 climbers reached the summit (using oxygen from Camp 4 onwards); statistically a good score. But the achievement was completely rescinded by the death of one of the team members, the 22 year-old British climber, Michael Matthews. In the descent from the peak, in particularly bad weather, Michael went missing. A devastating ending. His body ihas still not been recovered.
A deeply personal report of the Everest climb can be read in Katja’s book “High Stakes” (available in Dutch only: Hoog spel), which she wrote immediately after the expedition. it appeared in 6 reprints.
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