Gasherbrum 1 2004



  Gasherbrum 1 (8,068 m), Pakistan
Expedition: independent Dutch expedition, without O2 
Climbing team: Henk Wesselius, Katja Staartjes and Aminullah + Jhan Baig (Pakistan)
Expedition leader: Katja Staartjes
Route: Japanese Couloir (northern side)
Top: 25th July 2004, whole team
More information: www.gasherbrum.nl 

Hidden Peak
Gasherbrum 1 (G1) is also known as Hidden Peak, because it is only at the very last moment that you can see the peak. Together with Gasherbrum 2 to 5, this eight-thousand metre giant forms a sort of mountain bowl, all surrounding the same glacier. It is located in Pakistan in the Karakoram mountain range close to K2, and can be reached in a three day drive from Islamabad, with an 8-day trek over the famous Baltoro Glacier. The mountain has a small, pointed peak. Its biggest technical challenges are at around 7,000 metres (a 70-degree corridor) and just below the peak.

Small-scale Dutch expedition
It was on 29th May 2004 that Henk Wesselius and Katja Staartjes left for the Pakistani Karakoram with the intention of climbing the giant Gasherbrum 1 and 2 mountains. At 8,068 and 8,035 metres respectively, they are two of the only fourteen mountains in the world over eight-thousand metres high. The Dutch mountaineering couple were joined by two Pakistani team-mates: Aminullah and Jhan Baig. They had the support of the cook, Allam, in the base camp and there was liason officer Imran.

Patience
To start with the team had excellent weather. However, it lasted only until 22nd June. The rest of the climbing season in Pakistan was known for its disappointing weather: unceasing snow relieved only by high level storms for days on end, interspersed with only a day or two of good weather. Several expeditions returned home without having achieved their goals. Katja and Henk took their time.

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Peak Performance
The patience and persistence of the Dutch expedition paid off at last. On 25th July, Katja, Henk, Aminullah and Jhan Baig stood at the top of G1 in glorious weather. They reached the top specifically through excellent cooperation with two other teams: a strong team led by Ralf Dujmovits and Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner (Katja’s role model) and a Spanish team led by Carlos Pauner. 
The best part of this climb? It was the overall experience: the independence for the first time, the small team, participating in looking for and finding the route, the challenging circumstances, and the good cooperation with other teams. Although successful climbs to the top of these Pakistani giants are usually made after the beginning of July, the climbers on 25th July were the first to the summit in 2004. Katja and Henk were the first (and only up till now) among the Dutch climbers to reach the summit at Hidden Peak.

Accident after the summit
Unfortunately, the fun at the top was quickly overshadowed during the descent when the Spanish climber José Antonio Anton suffered a fatal fall. A terrible end to a beautiful and top-class experience.
Eventually it was decided not to climb Gasherbrum 2. The remaining time was limited, the bad weather was once again predicted and, of course, the accident also had a role to play. Sometimes it is better to simply cherish what you have already achieved.

During the expedition a daily report was published on the website www.gasherbrum.nl. Many photographs can also be viewed here.

                                                            Click to enlarge photos

 


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